Do this right now!

[jogger321]

Originally Posted by mrgrumpy2

i've done the thingy to the wotsit and yes it diddles better

But did you upsit or downsit raised it or lowered it ..that is the question!

[Rawhide]

Originally Posted by mathsman

I did mine to the max years ago and it made a big improvement. However, I have a Hyperpro rear shock and I have loads of adjustment. So one day I forgot to reset it all after carring a pillion and full luggage and then went to work on it-boy did it turn quick and easy or what! What Am I saying? Get that back jacked up!

Ian

your pushing the envelope of stability...

[colabear]

ok guys after spending over 2 hours reading the thread, amazingly i have only 1 question as pedantic and anal as it mite be....

somewhere on page 7 it says you measure from the top of the yoke to the top of the fork and for my bike a 2000/2001 800FiY it should be 39mm.

but in the haynes it says in chapter 6:7..."position the fork tube so the upper surface of the top cap is exactly 39mm above the top yoke"

and here is my point

the haynes diagram shows the 39mm measurement taken from the yoke top, up to the top surface of the hexagonal nut section of the cap which is a few mm below the fork top???

so my question is ...do i measure to the fork top as mentioned on here or to the top of the nut section of the top cap as shown in haynes diagram??

thanks for any help, and please forgive me but i want to do it right cos i mite not get a 2nd chance at it if i get it wrong!!!

[Rawhide]

Originally Posted by colabear

somewhere on page 7 it says you measure from the top of the yoke to the top of the fork and for my bike a 2000/2001 800FiY it should be 39mm.

Correct

Originally Posted by colabear

but in the haynes it says in chapter 6:7..."position the fork tube so the upper surface of the top cap is exactly 39mm above the top yoke"

Correct.

Originally Posted by colabear

the haynes diagram shows the 39mm measurement taken from the yoke top, up to the top surface of the hexagonal nut section of the cap which is a few mm above the fork top???

Your correct again, and the wording is correct, but IMHO you are looking at a diagramatical error. I have the haynes book in front of me right now and I can see what you mean. And its at least 10mm. Which will make a big difference. Fortunately that's not dangerous, cus you just end up with a very slow steering bike, but I think if you do this you may find the circlips will conflict with the clipons?? In fact, just try it as a mock-up, then if the circlip grove is hidden it'll prove its wrong.

Originally Posted by colabear

so my question is ...do i measure to the fork top as mentioned on here or to the top of the nut section of the top cap as shown in haynes diagram??

I also have in front or me a Honda workshop manual. There is no such discrepancy here. It shows the measurment in a differnt place. That being to the top of cap, (does not contain nuts) If Haynes had meant the top of the nut, surely they would have said so? but to my mind the upper surface of the cap means the bottom of the nut.

I did mine using digital verniers and got them within 0.03 of each other. (45.15mm actually) But if your going to this resolution you will find that the cap is not square to the tube ie, it's very slightly domed/conical round the edge

The trick here is to very consistent with your measuring method. I left the 24mm? socket on top of the nut and rested the slide section of the vernier against the side of the socket. This way I was measuring more square than just by eye and also by approximately the same distance in, from the outer edge of the cap each time.

A bit mad I know, as I don't know how closely matched each spring was for length or rate. (brand new from Maxton) And also, how far down is the locking nut on the damper rod in each case. Mine were matched as best I could by the same method each time in order to minimise the effects of backlash. I was just having fun pushing it to the absolute limit of my ability. (the set up that is, cus I can't ride for shit) Either that or I've gone OCD. Bet you don't feel so anal now. Do you?

[colabear]

Thanks for that in depth answer... I will measure to the top of the fork as mentioned on here, cheers !!

[reaper686]

For those not wanting to drop the seat height you can buy a Jack-Up kit from eBay that replaces the riser plates on the bottom of the rear shock to lift the back by about 25mm. makes a great difference in the handling and looks kewl with a kicked up back end.

[ratbiker]

Originally Posted by Rawhide

Correct



Correct.



Your correct again, and the wording is correct, but IMHO you are looking at a diagramatical error. I have the haynes book in front of me right now and I can see what you mean. And its at least 10mm. Which will make a big difference. Fortunately that's not dangerous, cus you just end up with a very slow steering bike, but I think if you do this you may find the circlips will conflict with the clipons?? In fact, just try it as a mock-up, then if the circlip grove is hidden it'll prove its wrong.




I also have in front or me a Honda workshop manual. There is no such discrepancy here. It shows the measurment in a differnt place. That being to the top of cap, (does not contain nuts) If Haynes had meant the top of the nut, surely they would have said so? but to my mind the upper surface of the cap means the bottom of the nut.

I did mine using digital verniers and got them within 0.03 of each other. (45.15mm actually) But if your going to this resolution you will find that the cap is not square to the tube ie, it's very slightly domed/conical round the edge

The trick here is to very consistent with your measuring method. I left the 24mm? socket on top of the nut and rested the slide section of the vernier against the side of the socket. This way I was measuring more square than just by eye and also by approximately the same distance in, from the outer edge of the cap each time.

A bit mad I know, as I don't know how closely matched each spring was for length or rate. (brand new from Maxton) And also, how far down is the locking nut on the damper rod in each case. Mine were matched as best I could by the same method each time in order to minimise the effects of backlash. I was just having fun pushing it to the absolute limit of my ability. (the set up that is, cus I can't ride for shit) Either that or I've gone OCD. Bet you don't feel so anal now. Do you?

After reading this I have gone away and looked at my set up. On the Vtec it appears it is different again.

It states that it should be 41mm to the top of the fork leg....not the fork cap. Simples! Therefore as the cap is 2mm it appears I have only adjusted mine 5mm not 7mm like I initially thought! LOL

[Rawhide]

Originally Posted by ratbiker

After reading this I have gone away and looked at my set up. On the Vtec it appears it is different again.

It states that it should be 41mm to the top of the fork leg....not the fork cap. Simples! Therefore as the cap is 2mm it appears I have only adjusted mine 5mm not 7mm like I initially thought! LOL

Whilst I'd agree that you are technically correct. I personally have a feeling this is semantic. As we dont set the forks up with the top cap off. I think if this were the case Hayns shuda, cuda, wuda (cringe) done a detail. I just get the feeling that for practical purposes in this instance the cap could be considered the top of the leg. CAVIAT- I am learning fast about the Fi but can't claim to have alot of experiance - I know nothing about the vtec.

I found this old post from page 15 of this thread #219

Originally Posted by Patch

When Honda first released the Fi-W the manual stated that the fork should extend 39 mm out from the yoke, it is from this figure that the 10 mm yoke drop is taken.

Honda then rethought this and the manual was changed to read 44 mm so if you are going for the drop from this starting point it will only be 5 mm.

Haynes manuals still read 39 mm so it is common that these are set at that level by garages and private mechanics alike.

Personally I think that dropping the yoke 10 mm from 44 - 54 mm is a bad idea, the risk of the oil cooler hitting the mudguard is pretty high and also the geometry is getting so extreme that stability is starting to be comprimised

If this is true, then it can't be considered a mod by insurers.

[fred888]

Hi Guys.
I've been reading these posts with great interest and have a question.
My FIY's forks may have already been dropped in the yokes as there is around 6mm from the top of the handlebar clip-ons to the stop ring (spring clip sitting in groove).
Can anyone tell me if the standard setting is stop ring directly on the top of the clip on? If yes, then my bike has already been 'improved'.
Apologies if this question has been answered already in previous posts.

Cheers

[Rogue]

The answer to your query is already posted several times in this thread, and you Raise the forks, drop the yoke...

[fred888]

Originally Posted by Rogue

The answer to your query is already posted several times in this thread, and you Raise the forks, drop the yoke...

I knew it would be - I'm just too f...ing lazy to search for it.

Anyway, my fork tops measure 43mm from the top of the yokes so only 4mm off standard. Maybe I'll drop her a bit more just to test the results.
However, she handles so fine anyway, I can't see it getting better.

[Rogue]

.....or 1mm only off the revised standard, so probably worth raising it that bit more to try it out - unless you're too lazy in which case why bother asking in the first place?

Let's face it, if you can't find the definitive answer to the question in the post DIRECTLY above yours then I don't suppose you could be expected to search further...