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  #1  
Old 11-04-2010, 16:05
Davidb Davidb is offline
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Question 1996 VFR 750 clutch will not disengage

Hi I am putting my VFR 750 back on the road after approx three years off the road in the garage. During that period I started it every now and again and it seemed to run fine.

However I have found that the clutch will not disengage. I have checked the fluid in the reservoir which was fine level wise.

I know it is going to need a full service with all the fuids changed etc and have just changed the oil to start with.

Does anyone know what may be wrong with the clutch and how to fix it

Thanks
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Old 11-04-2010, 16:11
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I suspect that the clutch plates have stuck together. Probably the best way to fix it is to remove them, clean them up and reinstall.

If you're feeling less mechanically sympathetic - start it up, place the front wheel against a wall, pull in clutch lever and engage first gear. It should free off the plates at the cost of shock-loading the transmission.
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Old 11-04-2010, 16:26
Davidb Davidb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schtum View Post
I suspect that the clutch plates have stuck together. Probably the best way to fix it is to remove them, clean them up and reinstall.

If you're feeling less mechanically sympathetic - start it up, place the front wheel against a wall, pull in clutch lever and engage first gear. It should free off the plates at the cost of shock-loading the transmission.


Thanks, you are right. I just tried it again, clunking it in to gear with the rear wheel on the ground and it disengaged. Doh !

Last edited by Davidb; 11-04-2010 at 17:11.
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Old 11-09-2011, 18:05
FTM FTM is online now
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I have the same problem, clutch wouldn't disengage but the fluid was below the window in the reservoir. I bled the clutch but it's still the same. Is it best to crash the gears with a hot or cold engine?

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Old 11-09-2011, 18:39
mangocrazy mangocrazy is offline
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Definitely hot, I'd say. Cold oil has more 'drag'. The plates should disengage more easily with hot oil.
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Old 11-09-2011, 19:01
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Originally Posted by FTM View Post
I have the same problem, clutch wouldn't disengage but the fluid was below the window in the reservoir. I bled the clutch but it's still the same. Is it best to crash the gears with a hot or cold engine?

There is a trick (which has worked before) of running the bike in gear and using the back brake to dislodge stuck clutch plates. The process is detailed here in post #4 have a look at "How to free a stuck clutch". but the trick will only work if the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder are both working properly.
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Old 11-09-2011, 19:20
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I thought of using the back brake. I was sat on the bike on the main stand with the engine running in first and I thought I'd just dab the back brake on, then I thought no, the centrifugal force of the spinning rear wheel might just throw the bike forward off the stand with me wheelying up the drive into the wifes car. I bottled it but I'll give it a go tomorrow.
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Old 11-09-2011, 21:02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FTM View Post
I thought of using the back brake. I was sat on the bike on the main stand with the engine running in first and I thought I'd just dab the back brake on, then I thought no, the centrifugal force of the spinning rear wheel might just throw the bike forward off the stand with me wheelying up the drive into the wifes car. I bottled it but I'll give it a go tomorrow.
How about moving the car first? or at the very least set up a video camera.

Of course you could put the bike in top and try the same thing, this eliminates the danger of a launched wheelie but actually reduces your chances of freeing the clutch.

Any way take it easy don't damage anything I'd hate to have an angry Mrs FTM chasing me, (hell, I've got enough female attention as it is).
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Old 11-09-2011, 21:49
mangocrazy mangocrazy is offline
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Probably the best way to try that trick would be to wheel the bike up to a solid brick or block wall and ensure the front wheel is pressed firmly up against the wall. Then put the bike on its centrestand. After that find some sturdy pieces of wood or block to 'pad out' the distance between front wheel and wall.

Then off you go... The worst you'll get is a lot of fork compression. My bet is it would work.
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Old 18-09-2011, 12:58
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Got it sussed now, thinking through it logicaly I realised it wasn't the clutch plates that were seized it was air in the fluid still. I bled the clutch for a second time and no air came out but I still didn't have a clutch so I leant the bike over to the right just incase there was some air trapped by the banjo bolt next to the reservoir. Sure enough loads of air came out so problem solved and the clutch works perfectly.

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Old 18-09-2011, 16:45
mangocrazy mangocrazy is offline
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Glad you sorted it. These days one of the first things I ever fit to any bike I own are stainless bleed nipple banjo bolts (also called bleedable banjo bolts). They make problems like the one you experienced a thing of the past. Here's one on eBay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GOODRIDGE-...item5ae0864f60
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Old 18-09-2011, 20:38
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Thanks MC I'd not seen these before.
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Old 06-10-2011, 16:30
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Bleedable banjo bolts

Wemoto do a selection of these for less than a fiver each
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