How to improve riding comfort: R1100RS & R1150RS

[Dee Duble Yuh]

In due course, no doubt, members will post a range of alternative handlebars, throttle grips, screens, saddles, lowering kits, after-market shocks and so on. That’s the purpose of this thread.

Before you spend loads of money on such accessories, I strongly urge you to give the stock R-RS a chance. It’s not perfect, but it’s far more comfortable than most bikes. Of course, each rider’s unique physiology, riding style and aspirations for the machine mean some are bound to want to change things. But before you do so, refit stock components if necessary, set the saddle to the highest you can safely use, set the handle-bars to the centre of their adjustment, wind the screen down to the lowest setting, and ride it for a few days. You might find that it’s just fine like that; if not at least you know what needs changing.

If you decide to make changes, beware of a number of pitfalls.

Pitfall #1. If your clothing is to blame, altering the bike won’t cure it. It may sound obvious when I say it like that, but you’d be surprised how many people just needed decent gloves or jeans.

Pitfall #2. If your posture is to blame, altering the bike won’t cure it. Too many riders slouch in the saddle. Sit with your back straight, your body-weight distributed between butt, feet and hands, your hips rolled forwards, and your "tail" (coccyx) pointing towards the rear light not the footrests. It might feel a little unnatural at first, but if you persevere, you'll find that the air flows more cleanly, you can reach the bars more easily, you won't ache so much, and you'll avoid damaging your spine.

Pitfall #3. If you clench your muscles, altering the bike won’t help. Move your body from time to time. Holding one motionless position will cause a build-up of lactic acid that makes muscles ache. This can be dispersed simply by moving your head when you look in the mirror, occasionally moving your shoulders and arms, wiggling your toes and so on. Also you should find that the throttle stays where it is with only the lightest of grips. You don’t need to cling on to that right-hand grip!

Pitfall #4. Comfort on the driveway isn’t the same as comfort on the move. Making improvements that seem great when you are stationary may make you uncomfortable when the air is flowing, the roads are bumpy, and you’ve been on the go for a few hours.

Pitfall #5. Don’t fall unthinkingly into the large screen/bar back/soft saddle trap. (This bit is purely my opinion; you are - of course - allowed to disagree!) The air is supposed to flow over your body. It supports your upper body and reduces wind noise on the crash helmet. If you try to build a wind-free cocoon with a bigger screen, you’ll put more weight on the wrists. If you solve this with bar backs, your body weight goes onto the saddle making you ache. A soft saddle can reduce butt-ache a little but won’t help your spine. A large screen and upright seating position causes more turbulence, making you wish you’d bought a bigger screen, and on it goes. Believe me, to redirect air away from you completely requires a huge screen, far bigger than would work on a sports-tourer like the R-RS. Indeed, many members say that trimming the screen down helps to improve comfort. Consider initially removing about an inch/25mm or so from the top of the screen and see if that helps. (If you are tall, have short arms or whatever, such changes might suit you.) Here are some threads on the topic:

• Wind Noise
• Excessive Wind Noise CAUSED by RS Fairing?

When you post below, explain what problem your suggestion solves and how effective it is. Your height and weight may be relevant (be honest now!) If your post suggests an accessory, please state make, model, address and URL of supplier/manufacturer, and the price you paid. A photograph showing what it looks like will be useful. Please avoid adding "me too" posts that just clutter up the thread. Cheers.

[cat0020]

Very interesting. I've always thought of putting my riding experience into words like so, but never quite came out the same way..
Currently, I have 24500 miles on my 2002 R1150RS. The first day that I picked up my RS from the showroom, I rode some 625 miles from Ann Arbor, Michigan to Philadelphia, PA. Over the last 23 months, I've made two trips from Philadelphia, PA to Key West, FL and back. The 1380 some mile trips usually take 29 hours one way.
Over the period that I've owned my RS, I've developed this following riding position that allow me to ride long stretches of highway at high speed.



Starting with the things that are closest to my body, I wear two pairs of bicycle padded shorts as under pants. I learned from riding/racing a road bicycle for four years that the three contact points from a rider to the bike are the most important places to have comfort.
A happy toosh is eccential for long period of time in the saddle. I try not to skim on the cost of bicycle shorts, the better the padding, the happier the butt.
I wear a pair of gel padded cycling gloves under my normal motocycle gloves.
Even though the RS already has the rubber damped handlebars, the gel gloves just give even more padding at strategic places that do not interfere with your hand movements.
On my feet, I usually start with a pair of thin coolmax sock and then another pair of wool socks. GoreTex hicking boots offer excellent comfort and good enough ankle support. Perhalps not the most protective gear but surely good enough through my crashes.
With my 5'10", 140 lb. frame, I leave the RS seat at the highest position for long highway riding. An aftermarket windscreen that's 2" wider and 2" taller than stock that's left at the lowest position 95% of the riding time, and the last, but most important item, is the Touratech tankbag.
As you can see from the picture, I lay my chest againt my tankbag (usually stuffed with some soft stuff to offer more plush), and my helmet against my windscreen. That takes the weight of my upperbody off from my arms/wrists, and most the weight of the helmet and head off my neck. It took a while to find the sweetspot where you can get clear, undistorted view through the windscreen, and also a location on top of the tank for the tankbag, Touratech tankbag allow itself to be secured at different places on teh fueltank. I rest my shins on the passenger pegs just to have a tiny bit more leg extention.
Even though my handlebars are set at the furtherst position, I still wish for the handlebars to be lower and further away when I ride in my "cruising" mode..
I like to think that my "highway cruising" riding position similar to a forward leaning massage chair position. My neck, shoulders, arms, back are mostly relaxed. Traveling at 85+mph, I can usually keep my "highway cruising" position for 15, 20 minutes at a time wihtout much trouble, given the highway is smooth and visibility allowed.
So far, that's what works for me, 24500 miles, no traffic ticket and no broken bones.

Another big help for logging miles is the GPS, gives me a sense of security that I'm never lost.
Streetpilot3 gives me estimate time of arrival for my destination and next turn, constantly gives me incentives to continue further.. allow me to count down for my riding time.

[moa_lek]

Hi All,

At Dave's suggestion I'm posting my recent experience with converting an R1100RS to tubular handlebars and all that entails.

Why did I do it? The upwards and backwards adjustment range of the stock handlebars are pretty limited, even with barbacks. I tried lots of variations over the course of about four years but was not satisfied with any. I also began trying the riding technique mentioned here, which I continue to use. Ultimately though I just don't like having the bars angled downwards like they are. While searching for possible solutions, I came across this write-up a while back:

Tubular bar conversion by Ray Downes (rkd). Thanks, Ray!

Ahah! This might could be it! Once the conversion is made, the range of bars and setups increases dramatically. I decided to give it a go.

What I started with:

• 1997 R1100RS, Midnight Black, fastest color, also the colour that is fastest, auch die Farbe, die das schnellste ist.
• Stock bars, no heated grips
• Barbacks and longer GS brake cable
• Throttlemeister

What I added:

• One Wüdo top yoke converter for the 1100RS. I ordered mine from www.wudo.com. I've seen them elsewheres for more money, and you might possibly find a used one
• R1150R handlebars (the 1150R Rockster bars are wider and flatter, if you prefer that. I didn't.) You can pick these up on ebay or nose around here or IBMWR.
• If you don't already have a longer brake line, you will need one for this to work.

Once the converter and bars are installed (I had Cal BMW do the dirty work) the R1100RS grips, controls, and Throttlemeister fit easily. Couple of screws were different, but that's about it.


Before and after pics (hopefully working this time)

have lots more pics, and I can supply high-res versions of these if anyone wants them.

I'm still getting used to the feel and behavior of the bike with this mod, but so far I like it. I'll report back as I put more time in the saddle with this setup.

cheers!

Doug

Additional borborygmi: I came to this point after quite a bit of time trying to work within the stock setup. I wouldn't recommend bar conversion as the first thing you try because it's both expensive and quite a bit of work for you or your mechanic. In my unreliable experience, there are no simple one-step quick fixes that will magically render a bike comfortable. Give the process lots of thought and lots of time. There is quite a bit to be said for the stock setup. However if you do decide to make more drastic changes, try and alter one variable at a time and see how that works, i.e. don't change the bars, shocks, seat and windshield all at once. Also give yourself and your bike some time and miles to see how a particular change plays out. Just my experience, YMMV, it's your karma, don't stare at the sun, eat your vegetables, tell me you're not wearing that hideous Hawaiian shirt tonight, really, does this bike make my butt look fat? &c &c.

[Dee Duble Yuh]

Some members have their own web pages that detail changes they've made to their bikes (not all are "comfort" related):

• Trevor W's "My Bike, So Far"
  • http://www.krakar.co.uk/rrs/sofar.htm
• Terry G's "Modifications to my R1100RS"
  
  • http://www.tgibson.dircon.co.uk/mods.html

There is a separate thread about lowering foot pegs using GS brackets, at How to change the riding position with GS footplates: R1100RS. Some members have added GS hand protectors too; see GS hand protectors.

A discussion of some after-market screens, and alternative ways to improve the stock screen, are at Screens Again.

If you'd like me to add your web page to this list, send the URL to me by PM (personal message) or e-mail.

[BMW-K]

I used to ride a K100rs, then I rode a ZX11, and now I am on the R1100RS. There is a lot of good stuff already typed above, and I won't rehash any of it.

One thing I want to point out is that riding comfort has a LOT to do with one's build as well as the design of the bike. It is critical to make sure the bike actually fits you. In my case, I am 5'8" wieghing 175#. Really, quite an average build overall.

On my Kbike, I always felt very spread out and stretched out. It was a problem on long rides and 300 miles was a long day on that bike. The ZX11 was a little better, just a bit more compact, but the truth was that the bike still had me stretched out pretty far.

On the R1100rs, I have found a bike that just plain "Fits" my physique. It's just far enough of a reach to the bars that it cants me forward a couple of degrees, but not so far to make me feel like I am reaching for the bars. The seat is a Corbin (more later) and gives me a nice, flat, wide perch to plant my arse for hours at end. And the adjustable seat gives me the ability to change the seat height at stops to change the bloodflow to my legs.

500 miles on the R1100rs is a walk in the park. I can go about 2 hours straight without my knees falling asleep. And THAT is what I want to talk about.

I have very real problems with blood flow to my knees. After about 60 minutes, I can feel my knees tightening up. After 2 hours of constant riding without change, my knees are on fire. After 3 hours, I just can't feel my knees anymore. The number one thing I have found to increase my range is:

STRETCHING.

Let's face it, the R1100RS has pretty darn good range for a bike. Given a nice even throttle hand it is possible to squeeze nearly 300 miles out of a tank of gas. That's a damn long time to go without a rest.

I do a LOT of "Stand-ups" when riding. After about 45 minutes, it's time to stretch. In fact, it's a good time to stretch every 15 minutes. I count them off and do about 20 "Stand-ups" where I simply stand up on the pegs slowly, count a couple seconds, sit back down, and then do 19 more reps like that. My knees stretch out, the blood starts flowing, and I find that I am MUCH more alert afterwards.

Riding pegs might be nice, but just aren't necessary with proper stretching.

Another thing I want to point out is the important of GOOD earplugs and comfort. When you don't have windblast distracting you and causing tremendous amounts of mental fatigue, you can ride farther in greater comfort. In addition, it let's you focus on other things: like how the bike is handling for instance. Did you know that you can really feel the road through your feet?

Along the lines of earplugs are sunglasses and/or a dark face shield for day riding. On bright days, I wear sunglasses under my dark smoked visor. Visual fatigue is another major issue that contributes to rider discomfort. 300 miles of desert riding will make a believer out of the dual sunglasses/dark shield concept.

Oh yeah, don't buy cheap ass $5.00 sunglasses. They only HURT your eyes. Optically correct lenses are what you want - Ray Ban's are my personal favorite, but Maui Jim's are excellent as well. Consider Polarized lenses as well.

Some kind of throttle lock is very important for long-distance stuff. No, I don't mean flat out locking the throttle down (which can be done), rather, I mean taking some pressure off the throttle return springs. I use a ThrottleMeister for LD superslab. It allows my right hand to relax more and allows me to pay attention to other things. Also, the solution doesn't have to be T-meister expensive. A $0.29 large O-ring is just as effective at taking pressure off the hand. I normally carry a few extras in my tank bag. A while back I did a 350 mile ride with a friend who rides a TL1000s. He didn't believe in the O-Ring - so I gave him one. I kid you not when I tell you that within 5 miles that guy was riding with a level of comfort he never knew existed.

Finally, a good seat. You can pick whatever kind you want - Stock, Corbin, Russell, Sargent, Mayer, stainless steel custom fitted to your arse - Whatever works for you. But the point is, WHATEVER WORKS FOR YOU. I like a nice, broad flat seat for distance riding. It's not as good in the twisties, but it works for the Slab. What I found is that on most stock seats, the foam padding breaks down and after 300 miles, I am sitting on the actual pan with very little cushioning in the seat left. My Corbin solved this issue for me. YMMV. Smooth lycra bicycling shorts also help a lot.

So, to summarize:

1. Stretching
2. Earplugs & Sunglasses.
3. Throttle-lock of some kind
4. A seat that fits your butt, whatever that may be. Lycra bicycling shorts.

To give a bike the chance to be comfortable, you really do need to give the bike a chance.

[Wayne Dowers]

If you wear jeans I have found these to be the most comfortable

www.gusset.com

I thought it was a gimmick at first, especially as the ads were in some motorcycle magazines, but they really are well fitting jeans that are comfortable on the long haul.

[peter_anon]

Some changes are needed. The width of the stock seat, and where the padding was built up, forced this big wad up by butt. The Sargeant World Seat is wider and firmer, meaning I sit on my 'sit bones' which is very comfortable. Alexander or not, if the seat don't fit, you must omit.

[cat0020]

Originally Posted by BMW-KI

Oh yeah, don't buy cheap ass $5.00 sunglasses. They only HURT your eyes. Optically correct lenses are what you want - Ray Ban's are my personal favorite, but Maui Jim's are excellent as well. Consider Polarized lenses as well.

That's one thing I forgot, I wear Oakleys and nothing but..
I figure if a MLB player wears them and can see a 90+mph fastball coming at him and swing it to a HR.. or catching that fly ball in the outfield, it gotta be optical correct.. or his 2-3 million dollar salary depends on it.

[TREE]

Something I found interesting was seat height, and it was not what I had expected. I am 6'1 with a 31 inseam ( long back ) and I usually ride bikes with the seat in the highest position.

On the RS (with a Corbin saddle) I noticed that mid height was more comfortable than top position........ I rode at top ht for a while but kept going back to middle position, was not sure why.

Finally realized it was my wrists, they had more weight on them at the higher position and in the next notch down I have done 1700 Km days with no complaints. ( bar backs and bigger w/shield on my bike also).

[stuartf]

Hi

Anyone got a link to Ray Downe's tutorial on changing to tubular handlebars on R1150rs - all the current links in the forum to this (and anywhere else I searched) seem to be down - also don't seem to be able to email him from forum. Any ideas please or other hints tips on doing this conversion with lots of easy steps