New clutch, R1100RS

[grantrobarts]

Hey guys,

I need to replace my clutch on my R1100RS coming up very soon. The dealership estimated $800 for the parts/labor. I hate to spend that, but I have a feeling that replacing a clutch on this bike is better off done by a professional. If I do want to do this myself, what am I looking at getting myself into?


Thanks

[dickybeau]

To replace the clutch, you need to disconnect the rear frame of the bike and hook the back to the ceiling so that it is out of the way. It will pivot on one of the forward bolts that go through the engine. You need to tie the front wheel to the mainstand and support the gearbox preferrably with a trolley jack. I think it is 6 bolts to disconnect the gearbox from the engine. There are also minor issues like the rear brake system, the starter motor and the clutch cable to take care of. The gearbox, drive shaft and rear wheel should be able to be pulled rearwards. Be careful, this is a heavy arrangement. 2 people can help to stabilise it. You should avoid placing pressure on the pushrod that goes between engine and gearbox or the rod will bend. Pull the gearbox back in a straight line. The clutch plate is then visible and can be dismantled from the engine by loosening the bolts a bit at a time. Replace the clutch plates and align with a centring tool. You can make one from a pencil and tape if you cannot borrow or buy one. IIRC you need to replace the clutch bolts with new ones. Tighten these gradually and evenly all the way round a bit at a time with the alignment tool in place. Cannot remember the torques but www.ibmwr.org has a file if you need them. The main issue is not to tighten the bolts unevenly as the clutch plates may become distorted.

Refit is a reversal of your disassembly taking care to align the gearbox and engine accurately and ensuring that the rod does not get damaged in the process. I have found that when connecting the gearbox input splines to the engine it helps to rotate the gearbox a small amount to help line up the splines and grooves. Don't force it, take your time and it will go home. BMW has special tools which fit through bolt holes in the gearbox into the engine at the top left and right which allow the box to be slid along the correct path when taking off and installing. I am sure that some bright spark in this group can help you make one from the correct bolts or threaded rod.

Oh! It helps to have a manual - Haynes works for me.

Best of luck

Ricky

[thencamebronson]

You may need a heat gun to sufficiently heat up the pivot bolts on the swing arm in order to break loose the loctite used on them. These are very easy to strip if you aren't careful.

Also, watch out for your ABS Sensor cable. I used a Haynes manual to do mine and it went pretty smoothly.

[Stefan]

I put a clutch and pressure plate in my 911 18 years ago. I was younger, learned a lot, had fun, and was less arthritic.

Today, I'd cough up the $800 to do the bike. :D

[BMW-K]

Hey Grant,

Given that I just replaced mine, I can tell you that as a first timer, it took me 4 hours to get the transmission off. Dunno, but I figure maybe 3 more to get the parts back together correctly.

It's a lotta labor. However, you WILL learn a LOT about your bike by doing this. It's a pain, but it is very beneficial...

On the other hand, I dunno if the job is worth all my labor! If I had to do it again, I would give it to BMW and let them deal with it. It really is a PITA.

[grantrobarts]

Good information, thanks a lot fellas.

[Ed Miller]

After I'd done it a couple of times I had it down to 4 hours total to remove and replace the tranny. Only once for the clutch though (the first time). And now that I know that I don't have to completely remove the rear subframe and just have to pivot it up out of the way (should have read the manual that I bought :rolleyes: ), I bet I could do it in under three hours. Its really not such a bad job to do.

[Andy Van Herwynen]

I've pulled the tranny of my 94 R1100RS twice before in 115,000 miles and had no problems getting it back together. So here I am replacing the clutch friction plate and diaphragm spring, tranny goes back on (I put the throw-out rod in the spring plate, long end in, before sliding the tranny into place) and everything bolts up. But, the clutch action is solid, as if the throw-out rod is bottoming out. I can't see what I've done wrong, but I'm getting nowhere fast. I know for certain the spring is in right, with the three "fingers" on the back side facing toward the flywheel. Clutch friction plate is installed with the long side of the spline hub facing towards the tranny.

Any clues mates?

[Andy Van Herwynen]

I can actually answer my own post. I found the problem was with the original pressure plates which I was trying to reuse, again. I replaced the friction disc at about 60,000 miles cause the main seal had failed and oiled the disc. But I reused the pressure plates. Then, suddenly, at 110,000 miles hte clutch started slipping under load. No adjustment would make it any better.

So out came the tranny, again. But again, I thought I could reuse the pressure plates, just burnish them with some emery cloth to freshen the surfaces. Oh no, not this time Mr. Cheap A$$ Biker.

The problem was a tapered face wear pattern on the pressure plates. They had worn to a VERY broad conical shape, such that I only got about an 1/8" wide effective friction area near the outer diameter on the friction plate. So I opted for the complete clutch rebuild kit (friction disc and both pressure plates). Not cheap, but worth every penny.

I got the new parts installed, properly torqued, and the clutch works exactly like it did from brand new. Don't scrimp on this one. Use the right parts. Use ALL of the right parts, and do it once. That equals more riding time.